Chanel Reinterprets Black & White in a New Makeup Collection

Lucia Pica, global creative makeup and colour director for Chanel, reinterprets the chromatic duet dear to the Mademoiselle herself.
Reading time 3 minutes

How was this new collection born?

Lucia Pica: I wanted to pay tribute to black and white, the perfect inseparable duet of Gabrielle Chanel and her work. These two emblematic colours, infinitely variable, are also omnipresent in the French capital, which feeds my imagination.

What were the steps of your creative process?

With photographer Max Farago, we made a black and white photo book, a creative genesis that traces the development of my collection. It is both a summary of Parisian places that inspire me and a complete mood board linked to Paris and its thousand faces. These shots have, each in their own way, influenced the hues, the textures, the light returned by each of the products.

The book dedicated to your collection includes many nudes. Why this choice?

I thought of this book as a set of evocations of the sensuality of the female body, sublimated by the play of shadows and lights specific to the different hours of a Parisian day. We spent a lot of time developing beauty concepts from these images. This quest for inspiration is my driving force: I like to grope, imagine, repeat as many times as necessary, and stimulate my creativity. I also wanted to show the impact of light on volumes and outlines and how light dresses naked bodies by itself.

The Parisian muse that best embodies your collection?

Gabrielle Chanel, of course. She represents for me the very essence of French elegance, and she knew how all about using the power of black and white.

What are the images of the Parisian landscape that stimulated your inspiration?

Poetry and beauty come to lodge in the smallest scenes of everyday life: the way the moonlight reflects on the Seine, the sepia highlights, the clean lines of a contemporary Parisian interior or dried roses in a window of a Haussmannian apartment.

How to integrate this black and white duo into one’s beauty routine?

I wanted to do a collection that was very easy to use for both day and night looks and would subtly reflect the light, paying tribute to the beauty of Parisiennes, natural and never ostentatious. I deliberately played on the contrasts and effects of light while creating very complementary products, leaving a lot of room for experimenting.

What advice would you give to those who hesitate to venture into the colours, especially during the day?

I have deliberately created very transparent textures that can be worked with the fingertips easily for a modulable effect, depending on the mood or the occasion. The colours of the palette can be mixed, for an intense smoky or vaporous effect. You can create many looks with the shades because of their different textures. For those who like subtle makeup, I advise trying the new shades of Rouge Allure Liquid Powder that provides a pigmented colour without the rich texture of a classic lipstick. Finally, I encourage women to ignore the rules: forget choosing between bold lips or eyes. Some combine both, and the result is splendid. Have fun with the products and experiment to the maximum!

How would you describe Parisians?

I admire their innate chic, their ability to stand out without seeming to have spent hours preparing. Their relaxed attitude, hair never too primed, eyeliner or lipstick a little blurry; there is always a signature detail that symbolizes their class effortlessly.

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Lucia Pica

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