Art

Eight Houses Behind Chanel’s Emblematic Codes And Creations

For the 2021/22 Métiers d’art show presented at le19M, CHANEL called upon the REMEMBERS Studio to make animated films and illustrations. Thus, eight models close to the House (Fran Summers, Pan Haowen, Mariam de Vinzelle, Rianne Van Rompaey, Loli Bahia, Mica Argañaraz, Lola Nicon and Akon Changkou) are portrayed in imaginary worlds inspired by eight Métiers d’art (Lesage, Lemarié, Massaro, Maison Michel, Goossens, Desrues, Atelier Montex and Lognon). 
Reading time 4 minutes

le19M is the backdrop to these films and illustrations, which have a lively graphic rhythm and are inspired as much by manga as by avant-garde animation. A tribute to CHANEL’s creative dialogue with the Métiers d’art, they echo the virtuosity of the great artisans they celebrate. They combine the symbols of the House, historic fashion savoir-faire and the unique architecture of le19M, this place where dreams are made.

1638799376276598 1 remembering coromandel lesage starring fran summers 1 copyright illustrations by remembers1638799376275927 2 remembering coromandel lesage starring fran summers 2 copyright illustrations by remembers

LESAGE
EMBROIDERER SINCE 1924 AND TWEED MAKER
A creative legend which has collaborated with the greatest couturiers, Lesage designs and embroiders sumptuous patterns. Since 1996, it has also been reinventing the tweed so dear to CHANEL, blending woollen yarns with the most unexpected materials. A partner of CHANEL since 1983, Lesage joined the CHANEL Métiers d’art in 2002 and continues this fruitful creative dialogue under the impetus of Virginie Viard. At le19M, Lesage brings together its ateliers, its unique collection of samples and its school where embroiderers pass on the secrets of their savoir-faire to the younger generations.

1638799502284406 3 golden hills atelier montex starring pan haowen 1 copyright illustrations by remembers1638799502336668 4 golden hills atelier montex starring pan haowen 2 copyright illustrations by remembers

ATELIER MONTEX
EMBROIDERER SINCE 1939
Combining ancestral traditions with contemporary creation, this is the magic of the Montex embroidery atelier. The sophisticated, modern and precious motifs that contribute to magnifying the CHANEL collections are all made using needlework, a Lunéville crochet hook or with the Cornely, a century-old embroidery machine guided by the hand. Montex joined the Métiers d’art in 2011.

1638799526440849 5 the camellia merry go round lemarie starring mariam de vinzelle 1 copyright illustrations by remembers1638799526498947 6 the camellia merry go round lemarie starring mariam de vinzelle 2 copyright illustrations by remembers

LEMARIÉ
FEATHER WORKER SINCE 1880 AND FLOWER MAKER
Since the 1960s, CHANEL’s emblematic camellias - like all of Lemarié’s floral ornaments - have been hand assembled petal by petal. In the completely draught-free workshops of le19M, armfuls of feathers are sorted one by one, then combed, curled or smoothed, glued or even woven. A vital partner to CHANEL for its collections, Lemarié also excels in couture sewing and creates remarkable inlays, flounces, smocks and pleats. Lemarié joined the Métiers d’art in 1996.

1638799548572304 7 a shoe that fits massaro starring rianne van rompaey 1 copyright illustrations by remembers1638799548660040 8 a shoe that fits massaro starring rianne van rompaey 2 copyright illustrations by remembers

MASSARO
SHOEMAKER SINCE 1894
From carving the last to sewing the upper to the sole, the shoes by Massaro for CHANEL are entirely handmade, in a perpetual search for elegance and comfort. The collaboration between CHANEL and Massaro began in 1957 with Gabrielle Chanel’s emblematic two-tone shoe and has continued from show to show ever since. Massaro joined the Métiers d’art in 2002.

1638799659594703 9 the coiffed lady maison michel starring loli bahia 1 copyright illustrations by remembers1638799659677484 10 the coiffed lady maison michel starring loli bahia 2 copyright illustrations by remembers

MAISON MICHEL
HATTER AND MILLINER SINCE 1936
Heir to a savoir-faire established in Paris since the 14th century, Maison Michel preserves and hands down the secrets of hat making. In its le19M ateliers, caps and brims are handcrafted on 3,000 lime wood blocks before being embellished with braids, flowers, feathers and other adornments by the House milliners. Maison Michel joined the Métiers d’art in 1997. Its boaters, veils, caps and berets evolve according to the CHANEL codes and are used to accessorise every collection.

1638799689247743 11 planetarium goossens starring mica arganaraz 1 copyright illustrations by remembers1638799689346059 12 planetarium goossens starring mica arganaraz 2 copyright illustrations by remembers

GOOSSENS
GOLDSMITH SINCE 1950
Precise gestures, meticulous workmanship, accurate proportions, perfecting the object... Robert Goossens’ technical skills evolved between sculpture and goldsmithing, from 1954, when he recreated Byzantine jewellery with Gabrielle Chanel, and later when he designed some of the furniture for her apartment at 31 rue Cambon. The House of Goossens perpetuates the heritage of its founder and today continues to respond to CHANEL’s imagination. Goossens joined the Métiers d’art in 2005.

1638799719143614 13 little treasures desrues starring lola nicon 1  copyright illustrations by remembers1638799719196745 14 little treasures desrues starring lola nicon 2 copyright illustrations by remembers

DESRUES
PARURIER D’ART SINCE 1929
A partner of CHANEL since 1965, Desrues was the first House to join the Métiers d’art in 1985. Collection after collection, in the village of Plailly, in the Oise region, 250 artisans mould, sculpt, dye, chisel, enamel, polish and check, one by one, the jewelled buttons designed especially for each CHANEL Ready-to-Wear collection, as well as belt buckles, bag clasps and precious jewellery. The work is carried out by hand or by using 3D printers thanks to a subtle combination of craftsmanship and high technology, tradition and innovation.

1638799769979304 15 rendezvous les ateliers lognon starring akon changkou  1  copyright illustrations by remembers1638799770035957 16 rendezvous les ateliers lognon starring akon changkou  2  copyright illustrations by remembers

LES ATELIERS LOGNON
PLEATER SINCE 1853
Knife, flat, sunray, Watteau or peacock... Lognon has more than 3,000 kraft cardboard pleat moulds that look like origami. Some are over one hundred years old; others have just been created - because the Lognon artisans are constantly looking for new pleats, particularly for the CHANEL Creation Studio. Giving shape and movement to the most varied fabrics is a virtuoso skill, a perfectly synchronised four-handed operation that requires physical strength, extreme meticulousness, experience of touch and expert knowledge in the specificities of the textile. Lognon joined Lemarié and the Métiers d’art in 2013.

All images are courtesy of CHANEL

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