How is it? The quest for a table that is both refined and convivial can quickly turn into a puzzle when you are in western Paris. Between the expensive tourist-trap breweries and the starred palaces a bit old-fashioned, is difficult to find a happy medium. It was without counting on Substance, collective adventure led by Matthias Marc, Anthony Pedrosa and Stéphane Manigold, creative trio craftsman of "uninhibited gastronomy", according to the statement of its website.
Lurking in the heart of rue de Chaillot between a slew of high-sounding embassies and the most popular of Parisian yoga clubs, this intimate address gives a serious boost to haute cuisine.
Here, no pretentious service or extended titles: the elegant human-sized room designed by architect Michel Amar gives pride of place to mineral materials, the service is smiling and relaxed, and the lucky guests benefit from a breathtaking view of the kitchens, holy of holies visible to all where the magic operates.
What do we order there? The first good news is that you don't have to break your ELP to discover Matthias Marc's excellent cuisine. With a 5-course discovery menu at 79 euros, the young chef who has visited Meurice and Lasserre is democratizing haute cuisine, making this exceptional experience accessible to everyone, seasoned gourmets and novices alike.
The second is that it is no longer necessary to inflict on oneself cures of juicing and other intermittent fasting the day after a dinner at Substance: thanks to the aerial dishes which put the spotlight on vegetality and vegetables. seasonal products, even the tasting menus leave an impression of lightness.
If the menu offers a plethora of tempting options, we cannot recommend enough to opt for the Carte Blanche Menu which gives free rein to the chef's inspirations. The evening of our visit, we feasted on smoked potatoes with trout eggs, a surprising fermented watercress gnocchi embellished with morteau jus, a succulent langoustine lacquered with chard seeds and currant, and a frozen chocolate soufflé with pine buds to die for.
A rhythmic and colorful culinary choreography, a return to the very essence of gastronomic discovery. No doubt, Substance lives up to its name.
18 rue de Chaillot 75016 Paris