Fashion Week

Long live vinyl

The decade that made Yves Saint Laurent a legend is resurrected by the hand of his current successor. Anthony Vaccarello designs a collection that harmoniously mixes all the essentials of the 80s: from the biker with broad shoulders, to large gold jewelry.
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Place du Trocadero, but without the Eiffel Tower as decoration (hail forces), the music, a creation by Frenchman Sebastian, sends the first look, which sets the tone for the whole collection. It is a double-breasted red tartan jacket, worn over a lavender blouse of the same print and tight-fitting black vinyl leggings. Even without the maxi earrings, the wide belt and the pointed heels, we are not mistaken: the 80s are doing well on the podium. One after the other, the models take the podium, each in the middle of a projector, as in the credits of a James Bond film.

The leitmotif of the collection? Without a doubt vinyl, present in almost all looks and, even more unforgettable, in the form of waders, which were lost in pencil skirts or dresses. Colorful double-breasted, wide-shoulder jackets, in classic wool tartan, velvet or even leather, also dominate the collection. But of course, Vaccarello being Vaccarello, the collection would not be complete without some ultra-sexy moments (in case the debauchery of vinyl would leave someone on their appetite), provided by transparent blouses, vinyl bras and lace bustiers, to name a few.

The brewing of two decades is thus completed and Saint Laurent succeeds in making travel in the 2020s some of the great successes of its past. The only thing that is notably lacking on the podium this season are men, who we normally see wearing the brand's collection.

At the end of the show, the models walk from spot to spot, crossing the catwalk one last time before the designer leaves. Vaccarello walks briskly to the middle of the track and quickly turns around to thank guests who, once again, were enchanted by his creations.


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