"Imagine: by hiding in caves and shelters deep underground, small but illustrious groups have survived the Apocalypse, the climate wars, the heatwaves, mass extinction."
Marine Serre debuted another apocalypse-inspired collection at Paris Fashion Week for Spring / Summer 2020, named Marée Noire, or Oil Spill. The timing of her fashion show could not have been more perfect, as Climate Week in New York was taking place, and the United Nations was making some major decisions.
The first looks of the collection look much different than Serre's usual, recognisable moon print. It's not hard to imagine the plain black jumpsuits in a toxic, ruined world, with trench coats, skin-tight gloves, and shiny black boots becoming literal Marée Noire. Some designs are almost like an inversion of the stark, monochromatic black: flowing white pieces and florals that emanate a soft feminine power, though still giving off the same feeling of defiance and survival. Serre's most iconic design is the full-body catsuit with her signature moon print, a distinctive style that helped her attract the world's attention and earn the LVMH Prize in 2017. Although the moons do make an understated appearance, the trademark design wasn't used as much as in previous collections. Catsuits with moon cut-outs and coats with moon imprints were a much more stately iteration of the pattern. That showcased the evolution of the designer's aesthetic, the same as Molly Goddard did with her signature tulle designs in London.
Serre displays a consistent dedication to exploring sustainability through her work, and the idea of creating fashion for a world that's been destroyed but still is fascinating. We can only hope that this will lead the industry towards becoming more conscious of the ongoing destruction.