A field of lavender in Valensole. Immense and boundless scented heath in the heart of Provence. "A postcard, a landscape that is a bit of a cliché," explained Simon Porte Jacquemus, who chose to bring editors and buyers to his country to celebrate his tenth anniversary. Making a spectacular show co-ed, the men's collection and the women's collection for spring-summer 2020, in addition to the special four-handed project with Swarovski. To welcome the designer's crew, under the golden sun of the sunset a mileage catwalk, a fuchsia scar ready to cut the landscape in two. "I wanted a special artistic intervention, to Christo," the creative then said, leading a reality that invoices about 25 million euros more than doubled compared to last year, thanks above all to the boom in accessories. «I liked that this show had a connection with art and above all it told what they are. Provence is part of my story, my life. But this collection has nothing to do with Provence. Tell us what they are today ». And the today of Jacquemus materializes under the eyes of an audience seated on wooden boxes in the midst of fragrant lavender bushes, among white butterflies that move while the sun goes down, intoxicated by the essence of the Provencal flower. Also on show are the garments of the four-handed project with Swarovski which, 20 years after the sponsorship of Alexander McQueen, has chosen to partner with a designer after supporting, through the Swarovski collective, over 150 young creatives.Designer had never collaborated with Swarovski. "For me Swarovski is a legendary brand that has collaborated with special realities like Dior or Alexander McQueen," said Jacquemus. "Working together for the first time for this important collection makes me doubly happy". To open the show, Mika Arganaraz with an absolute white men's suit and a long tunic top-to-toe that is a spider web of evanescent lace. The whole season is a story of summer seduction, starting from the title of the show, Coup de soleil, sunstroke. And all the outfits give off a capacious Mediterranean sexyness. Like the guy in the middle of the show, in jeans patched with giant daisies, who show off a judo torso showing the sign of the mason effect tan. Between touches of irony and acute sexyness, the show is a parade of 65 looks. «There is everything that has inspired me over the years, all those overdressed and fantastically fascinating women I met in Paris but also all those guys, with whom I grew up and whom I met, who wear too many colors on themselves and a little too many fantasies but they are always extremely cool ». So the woman who steps up is sexy in the first place. In his boxy jackets worn to skin. In the dresses by the strategic geometric portholes. In airy outfits blown by the wind and in bikinis turned into tops over manager's trousers. In the scandalous transparencies and rural straw accessories. In the second skin silhouettes that shape the figure but also in the bucolic fantasies that paint the cottons. Man is his twin. It exhibits naive masculinity. Between flower patterns that seem to be drawn from a childish hand and tailoring with adult proportions, comfortable bermudas and overcoat coats, lace blouses, boxy duster coats and fuzzy crime sweaters, 90s jackets and vacationer shorts. In common the accessories, playful and irreverent as usual. Straw hats for him, mini bags and pendants carry everything, shopping bags and also baby carriers created with the same concept. And then the lucky charms. Cobs, lemons but also crocheted lavender bouquets transformed into charms. "I wanted to dream big ... And this was my dream since I started this work," added the French designer, a lover of experiential catwalks in a breathtaking location. Like the shows in Marseille or last year's in the Calanque de Sormiou. "I believe they help tell my world and my fashion," said Jacquemus, who like Pierre Cardin loves to tell his fashion by choosing special sets. "For me he has always been a great master, a true point of reference with his immersive and enveloping shows". Like the Valensole event, because after the show the guests were seated on the side opposite of the hill where, in the midst of an endless field of wheat, dinner and a triptych of dee-jay set were set up. An open-air party, in the style of Coachella festival, including bales of hay, pizza, rivers of alcohol and Provençal cuisine. All while in console alternate Louise Chen, Teki Latex and Clara3000, to animate the curtain of lights and the stage ready to collapse under the weight of voguegging and break-dance. Uninterruptedly, until dawn. "It is my way of saying thanks to all those who have helped me, to my family of birth and to my family acquired thanks to this splendid journey."
Author of the article: Giampietro Baudo