The new gastronomic opus of Stéphane Manigold awakens the sleeping beauty of the Madeleine arrondissement. Only one year after the opening of Substance, the new restaurant Contraste has already earned lots of attention as a fabulous food scene.
The least we can say is that the place is aptly named, both in terms of design and plates: a harmonious mix of bourgeois codes and vintage safe values, 18 rue d'Anjou brings together the best of both worlds.
The moldings and the vast Haussmanian volumes rub shoulders with the solid marble tables, softened by the tobacco benches and the Pierre Paulin armchairs, which will delight those for whom a successful dinner begins with a comfortable sitting.
The delicious four-handed creations of chefs Erwan Ledru and Kevin de Porre, the complementary duo that officiates in kitchens, are made under the eyes of the lucky ones installed in front row seats. Young talents, having worked at the most exquisite Parisian palaces such as Shangri-La and Plaza Athenee via the Meurice, have come to work here, introducing impressive courses.
The two maestros write a surprising culinary score in duet, and bring together the flavours of their respective terroirs from Brittany to Catalonia, at the crossroads of the land and the sea. Under their creative guidance, octopus meets the Iberian soubressade, eggs from the hen house rub themselves with the exquisite smoked eel and beetroot, while the mackerel melts happily with the transalpine Lardo di Colonnata.
Some of Contraste's dishes are very adventurous, but the chefs have also taken care of more consensual dishes, among which are Breton artichokes, grapefruit, and coffee, as well as vegetables with figs, a vegan option for freshness. So many beautiful culinary escapes to discover during the tasting menu in five acts, a voyage of the senses sublimated by a selection of outstanding wines!
18 rue d'Anjou, 75008 Paris