For about a year, Bottega Veneta has first brought to mind one thing: the viral new line of bags. Starting with the Pouch, which became an It bag as top editors and influencers alike embraced it en masse, and continuing with a strong range of woven creations, the new accessories have helped the house to take over the fashion world, no logomania or major celebrity face needed. But while Daniel Lee has made a strong case for good design, winning many awards in the process, the same energy that's made his first offerings so strong has left him wanting to prove he has more to offer.
In a recent interview with The New York Times, Lee expressed a desire for longevity past the initial hype, and Bottega Veneta Fall 2020 proved to align with that sentiment. The show notes stated that the new collection was about sublime evolution, focusing on self-expression, form, and "a captivating journey through daily life." The result was a mostly neutral collection with bold pops of color, every look feeling like a complete ensemble. A mix of textures—knits, leather, shimmering pieces—mesmerized the crowd, as did the easy yet defined silhouettes. Fringe was a key detail, on everything from coats to dresses to bags, and though Lee was clearly proving how compelling his clothing can be, accessories were also as strong as ever.
Having previously been the ready-to-wear director at Phoebe Philo's Céline, Lee has often been subject to expectations that he would fill that current void, and much of this collection, from the luxurious coats to the movement of the silhouettes, succeeded in this vein. He certainly seems to have a grasp on what women want to wear, first proven with the widespread adoration for his accessories and continued with pieces that felt like the next evolution of a modern fashion person's wardrobe. With rumors of Philo herself coming back to fashion, though, Lee is also continuing to establish his own name, displaying strength in menswear as well and embracing a bit of Italian eccentricity through shades of lime green and hot pink as well as the sophisticated sparkles.
While it will take some time to see what elements hit it off in the real world, Bottega Veneta Fall 2020 made it clear that though Lee has made some incredible accessories, he's just as good at ready-to-wear, and the latter is not about to take a backseat in the new decade. The looks feel timeless yet modern, and much like at Marc Jacobs in New York, it seems the brand has found success in taking everyday inspiration in a nuanced direction.
See all the looks from Bottega Veneta Fall 2020 in the gallery below.