Fashion Week

Felipe Oliveira Baptista from Kenzo debuts

A journey from Asia to Europe with a new tech-cultural wardrobe
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The title of Kenzo Fall-Winter 2020-21 collection is "Going Places". The debut of the Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista starts, in the true sense of the word, with the idea of a journey that starts from the East and arrives in the West. The same journey that young Kenzo Takeda made on board a cruise ship, from Tokyo to Paris. In fact, most of the looks seem designed to deal with harsh climates and storms: almost all the heads were hats or caps with a scarf /shawl incorporated. Baptista inserts leather, the favorite material of his stylistic code, in different forms of deconstructed outerwear and military and camouflage print, including a shearling coat; and more in the belts, which have incorporated small single-colored leather bags, to keep the necessary for the great adventure. An adventure that cannot be tackled without the seasonal accessory, the thermal bottle (also seen from Marine Serre) to be tied to large bags in the shape of a baseball ball stretched by means of a scarf. And the reference to the head of the Tiger could not be missing, symbol of the maison, which appears, on tunics, djellaba and sweaters, for the first time without the characteristic logo. The tiger is reworked and artfully sketched with a collage of feline pictorial prints made in collaboration with the famous Portuguese artist Julio Pomar. A personal and intimate touch is given by the memories of Felipe's trip to the Azores and a memory of his parents about to organize a parachute jump in Mozambique. The parachute canvas is therefore used in parkas, over ponchos and in camouflage jackets with floral or pop-art motifs, while the tension towards the practicality of this tribe of global nomads culminates with the duvets that become sleeping bags, elegantly open on the shoulders , but which, if desired, can reseal themselves to the cocoon. This imaginary journey is an invitation to continue appreciating diversity by embracing it which is then the wealth of a world without borders, despite the difficult moment that we are all experiencing.

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