Fashion Week

The tailoring experimentalism of Ermenegildo Zegna

Garments obtained from the reuse of raw materials and tailoring are the key to the success of the brand's Autumn Winter 2020
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The space of the ex Macchi foundry. A huge suspended cube, a play of color, matter and light, which seems solid, but which is actually transparent. The work Art for Earth by American artist Anne Patterson invites viewers to interact. Alessandro Sartori has chosen an immersive installation made up of thousands of ribbons made from leftovers from the last six shows to present the new Ermenegildo Zegna XXX collection. The creative director has returned to the concept of upcycling, revisiting modern tailoring with textile research and extending the grammar of #UseTheExisting, that is, dressing with existing but totally reinterpreted wardrobe items. "Using what already exists" for the brand is not a simple recycling, but a real philosophy that starts from fabrics to extend to collections and beyond. Thus, the new wardrobe redefines and redesigns the concept of tailoring, it is made up of garments obtained from the reuse of natural and synthetic raw materials. Like clothes sewn with fabrics made from scraps from other processes and woven, so that the materials are reused, minimizing the impact on the planet. The man from Zegna is a lover of beauty and tailoring. It sports a new, freer and more spontaneous styling. It combines an industrial allure with an elegant silhouette. She wears three-button suits with slightly squared one-and-a-half-breasted jackets and cigarette trousers, tight on the bottom worn with oversized blousons; the overshirts with zip and deep neckline replace the traditional shirts. The tailored waistcoat is also back, a passe-partout to be worn this time even on its own. New forms are defined. Dressing gown blazer with belt; coats with large volumes with deep rear folds; coats inspired by parkas; shirts that become short-sleeved blousons. But everything starts from fabrics, natural and synthetic, increasingly experimental, even in simple fabrics such as recycled cashmere flannel or woolen cloth obtained with the scraps of clothing. Without forgetting the accessories that complete the look: polished boots and ankle boots, oversized fanny packs, soft bags and the Insta Pack, a cross body bag inspired by the world of photography.

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