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Cartier's Latest Collection, [Sur] Naturel

For this new collection, called [Sur] Naturel, the great jewellery house takes a creative path which combines figuration with abstraction, influenced by elements of nature such as water, flora and fauna.
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On the one hand - water, plants, animals. On the other - creations which have kept only the spirit of their primary energy in a multitude of details. As with every high jewellery collection, Cartier highlights what is the most precious and most archaic, most beautiful and most mysterious: stones. Diamonds, emeralds, sapphires are combined with opal and kunzite, coral and aquamarine, beryl and quartz. The stones release their transparency, revealing a play of depths.

 

Cartier jewellers stylise the characteristics of these influences, such as the colourful spots of an animal or the roundness of a plant, to create this mystical collection that evokes a sense of wild nature and fantasy, the movement of water and scales. Among the centerpieces of this collection are 5 exquisite necklaces and a fascinating wristwatch.

FROM FIGURATION TO ABSTRACTION - Cartier
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The reinterpretation of the panther coat, the association with bright colours, the play of precious and fine stones thus gives birth to the Hemis necklace, a creation that awakens the imagination. The irregular shape of the opals, the apparently disordered distribution of the diamond elements, the mixture of precious and fine stones give this necklace an organic and hybrid dimension that intrigues… and leaves everyone the freedom to find an answer. Is it the spotted coat of a panther? Pebbles at the bottom of a river?

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Platinum, a 71.08-carat cushion kunzite, opals, pink and white brilliant-cut diamonds.

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Fluted coral, panther spots, association of fine and precious stones… through the “tropical panther” wristwatch, Cartier gives birth to a hybrid chimera, between animal and organic, a chimera of gold and coral, spotted with onyx and diamonds. By associating gadrooned coral with yellow gold, the panther motif, aquamarines and tourmalines, Cartier creates a work that is both totally unique and yet anchored in the stylistic history of the house, and, more precisely, in its wake.

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Yellow gold, two octagonal aquamarines for 12.71 carats, two octagonal blue tourmalines for 20.58 carats, coral, onyx, brilliant-cut diamonds, quartz movement.

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At the heart of this transfigured nature, the crocodile, an emblematic animal of the Cartier bestiary, is born from a dazzling lapidary composition in diamonds and emeralds to compose the “Gharial” necklace. If the treatment is abstract, the inspiration remains clear. The play of diamonds with each other is apparently random: it is actually the fruit of a well-ordered composition which evokes, with strong realism, the skin of the animal.This technical and virtuoso approach takes into account at the same time the differences of levels, the control of the volume and the games of matter. The result is beyond all realism, rich in its evocative power.

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Platinum, five octagonal Zambian emeralds for 11.31 carats, fifteen octagonal Zambian emeralds for 4.13 carats, two F VS1 / VS2 tapers diamonds for 6.90 carats, tapers, square and brilliant-cut diamonds.

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Signature chromatic association and exceptional stone: the snake emerges in a perfect exercise of abstraction. Through its stylised design, the “Opheis” necklace recreates what it represents most powerfully: its scales and the accumulation of its rings. Jewellers have indeed imagined placing diamonds in such a way that they overlap in staggered rows, to create the impression of a snakeskin. The onyx triangles evoke a dorsal ridge that poses symmetry, perspective and dynamics.The center stone is a Zambian emerald stone remarkable for its point and for its rare shape - rectangle cabochon cut with rounded sides. With its unique shape, it evokes a snake's head: it is the source of inspiration and gave impetus to the design.

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White gold, a rectangular Zambian emerald with rounded corners of 53.94 carats, two rectangular diamonds for 5.42 carats, a kite diamond of 1.55 carats, onyx, baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds.

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Water and its movements inspire the Cartier “Sinopé”, a sapphire and diamond necklace with an organic and supple shape, which combines the art of jewellery and a strong power of evocation. Edged with a lapis lazuli scallop at the bottom of the neck, the structure is made up of small elements, set with diamonds all articulated together. On the outside of the corolla, there is a set of five Ceylon sapphires. The structure is leveled in order to harmonise the whole. To integrate the sapphires into the band, settings have been developed which hold the stone from below. Curves and counter-curves restore the crystallization of water, when it becomes ice, or the flow of waves.

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White gold, five oval Madagascan sapphires for 39.22 carats, lapis lazuli, brilliant-cut diamonds.

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Cartier's floral repertoire is also enriched with the “Tillandsia” necklace, inspired by a plant from the Bromeliaceae family, evoked on this piece by its most characteristic: its quills, but also the roundness of its waterlogged plant forms. To translate the subtle tones of tillandsia, the chromatic palette combines the fresh and tender green of beryls and adds to it the rosy reflections of rutile quartz, the solar radiance of yellow diamonds and others darker, even a little earthy. Rutilated quartz are cut so that their material is sufficiently intense in color. Associating rutile quartz with diamonds implies certain adaptations in setting techniques. It was thus necessary to develop a particular setting to arrange the diamonds flush with the metal and harmonise the whole. A true jewellery masterpiece, this necklace combines the stylisation of lines with a complex design that testifies to the house's high level of know-how.

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White gold, two oval green beryls for 163.97 carats, a fancy yellow pear diamond of 0.55 carat, a fancy dark orangey-brown pear diamond of 0.53 carat, rutile quartz, pear brown diamonds, yellow rose cut diamonds, diamonds white and yellow brilliant cut.

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