What does the actual creation process consist of? In a tangle of loose thoughts? Unbridled inspirations? Visual, olfactory and tasty memories? For Maria Grazia Chiuri, the process of creating a collection means asking about the work and how the project can relate to present day and the people who live there. For Dior's Autumn 2021 collection, the designer makes evident a double movement, shaped by a pop aesthetic and the return to Monsieur Dior's studio.
Opening the door to an eclectic collection, Christian Dior's perfect spotted coat from the 1950s - a declination of the fur coat, as well as related accessories, from one of his close friends and collaborating muses, Mizza Bricard: "Such a unique nature inimitable excesses in it, would have compensated for the somewhat cautious nature that comes from my Norman roots”, as the French stylist wrote in his autobiography.
It is precisely an iconic idea that explodes in shapes and materials, from wool to lace, to plastic, changing direction to a range of fluorescent colors, such as green, pink and orange. It is in this open territory that the pop attitude is specified, leading us to other desires and intentions, as true that become signs that feed on the pop aesthetic of Elio Fiorucci's commercial fashion. They also include feelings and imagination, such as the extraordinary vitality of sounds, rhythms, colors and fashion that is the phenomenon of K-Pop - and the female group Blackpink, which expresses all its involving vitality and the individuality that we value so much.
The stylist also highlights an aesthetic that unites Richard Hamilton's English pop imagery, Marco Lodola's New Acid Futurism or the psychedelic reinterpretations of Paolo Uccello's Renaissance according to Andy Warhol, in a process of free association.
White T-shirts with different designs become a diary of all the ideas that went through the collection's creative process: a space of imaginative freedom, as Chiuri explains. A collective work, to which the team's different sensibilities were contributed.
What Maria Grazia Chiuri presents is not just a list of materials, colors and shapes. It is the awareness of the need to imagine and build identities to face today, without leaving aside lightness, energy and sophistication.