This weekend Fashion Trivia has made a splash in the past. Between minimalism and experimentation, here are the secrets of the historical creative directors of Chanel, Prada, Versace, Comme des Garcons and Vivienne Westwood, in the glorious 90s.
KARL LAGERFELED, CHANEL
It was his arrival from Chanel that gave new life to the maison and consecrated it one of the greatest creative geniuses of fashion of all time. Karl Lagerfel immediately revisited the iconic pieces that Mademoiselle Coco had created: the bourgeois-looking tweed suits have become pop and colorful, the skirts have shortened, Chanel's "double C" and the chains have become the “must have” detail also on bikinis. Numerous women inspired him, but in the 90s his muses were the famous supermodels Claudia Schiffer, Stella Tennant, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss ... who made the 90s catwalks of the Maison Chanel unforgettable.
MIUCCIA PRADA, PRADA
They call her "the Lady", Miuccia Prada, lady of Italian and international fashion has revolutionized the concept of fashion, making it intellectual and enhancing the aesthetics of ugliness that becomes beautiful. The '90s of Miuccia Prada ranged from a minimal attitude, to a timeless femininity as in the Spring Summer collection of '92, where she brought the French Riviera of the 50s and 60s to the catwalk. Disruptive and innovative, the Lady of fashion has played with materials and meanings: in the Spring / Summer '95 collection she introduces nylon, a distinctive element of Prada to this day. In 1996 his collection was inspired by the "banality", a concept already consolidated in literature, cinema and art, but not yet in fashion, so much so that the collection will be defined by critics "ugly chic".
GIANNI VERSACE, VERSACE
Originally from Reggio Calabria, Gianni Versace will declare that it was right there where he began to appreciate the art of Magna Grecia as a child, inspiration of his aesthetics. His collections are a mix of passion, culture, talent and taste. Gianni Versace was the pioneer of the supermodels phenomenon, the cornerstone of 90s pop culture. Versace's clothes seem to be sewn on the bodies of the new sinuous, statuesque and sensual goddesses. The Versace runway show with its muses will become famous, so in 2017 her sister Donatella, today at the creative direction of the fashion house, closed the catwalk of the 2018 spring-summer collection with a tribute ending to Gianni, in the company of Carla Bruni , Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen.
REI KAWAKUBO, COMME DES GARCONS
Rei Kawakubo, known for having always been against the trend, master of volumes, dismantles and reconstructs the traditional tailored wardrobe, giving it new interpretations. The 90s were the protagonists of the success of the Japanese designer. Unforgettable the 1992 "Unfinished" and "Trascending Gender" collections from 1995, both contain the philosophy and work of the founder of Comme des Garcons. The first shows how the essence of clothes is not in the finished product, but in the process of creating and building them. The second merges pieces of the female wardrobe, with pieces of the male wardrobe: gender becomes a formal and aesthetic convention because man and woman are equal in soul.
Vivienne Westwood, Queen of punk style and the beating heart of British fashion. Her fashion is steeped in activism and nonconformity. Vivienne Westwood becomes an icon of her time. The autumn-winter 1995 collection, entitled "Vive La Cocotte", where Westwood plays by applying pieces and historical details to contemporary clothes, is iconic. The models parade with cotton hairstyles and make-up with white greasepaint, like modern ladies at the court of Marie Antoinette.